I've used Aluma-Hyde on many weapons for many years. perfect match to the existing finish. After the hour is up you can turn off and then allow the oven to cool down for about 45 minutes. like everyone else has said, prep is the most important thing for this. For Black Touch-Up of Anodized Aluminum. Remove the trigger group, pins, sight leaf, sight leaf spring, muzzle break, and tape the threads on the muzzle to protect them. http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p ... 86F817CADD, Second Media Corp., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. May 26, 2008 #1 . Brownells has a youtube channel that explains everything. A heat gun works well for heating up the piece while a bowl of warm water does a good job of keeping the Aluma Hyde can warm in between coats. Hi everyone, Im the FNG here and was hoping to get some info on lower prep for Aluma Hyde. i like to bake the parts at 100-150 degrees for like 24 hours after i paint it. Anyone familiar with this stuff? I didn't even think to check out their Youtube channel. Some of them come in rattle cans for easy application. Some of them come in rattle cans for easy application. If your surface prep is perfect and you follow the directions to a "T" it's a fine finish. Usually by the time I am done with the coating process my oven is ready to go. Today I’ll provide you with a guide to corrosion proofing your gun parts with Aluma Hyde II as suggested by TFBTVs James Reeves. All the rattle can protocol … Applies and reacts like Perma-Blue. For Aluma-Hyde I put on in a single coat, let it dry for 1-2 days and then bake it in the oven for an hour at 300 and it comes out hard enough that I can't scratch it with my fingernail. Aluma Hawk is a quick-dry, high-solids, corrosion-inhibiting coating designed for use on aluminum with no need of additional primers. Anyone familiar with this stuff? The photo above is the first step of prep I did on the magazines. After the pieces have been sprayed you’ll want to take special caution from here on out to not touch the workpieces with your hands. no complaints from me. Metal Prep & Coloring Power Tools & Accessories Rifle Tools ... Aluma-Hyde II. Used and specified by the Armed … I, on the other hand, seem to have the biology of a xenomorph, and by that, I mean that I have managed to corrode a couple of my gun slides as well as one of my recently purchased Shield Arms S15 magazines. Gun Tech Dave Bennetts demonstrates our proven, four-coat application process for Brownells non-baking Aluma-Hyde II, our easiest to use, most versatile gun finish available. ALUMIPREP 33 should not be used on high copper bearing aluminum alloys or aluminum castings. WARNING!! May 9, 2008. I just finished using it to touch up some knicks and scratches and after two weeks it's hard as a rock and solid. You’ll first want to make sure your surface is clean and free of any debris or rust. Here is the link to the Brownells Youtube spray-on finish guide series: Thanks alot for the link! I did notice a couple of small spots where the coating has worn off completely but they are mostly points where the magazine comes into contact with hard metal surfaces. The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. i've never tried duracoat, but alumahyde II is the shit. After that 45 minute is up, open the oven completely and allow the piece to cool to room temperature for about 30 minutes. Start off by spraying an even and light first coat on your pieces. I then used sand paper to remove as much of the factory finish and rough up the metal to take the Aluma Hyde. I was planning to Parkerize my barrel, but this looks like it could be an alternative. Degreasing is also very important. If you prep properly and allow it sufficient time to cure it's very durable. Let me know down in the comments if you have any questions or let me know what your current coating project is! The Method I used took only about one hour to bake with some cooldown steps afterward. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Stick to using the attached wires and keep the workpieces suspended between now until after they’ve cured. Also consider if applying anything to the outer chamber and bolt will affect headspace. After you’re done spraying, remove the spray nozzle and toss it in some paint thinner in order to keep it from clogging. If you have a normal oven that has a bottom element, the aluminum foil will prevent the workpieces from developing hot spots as the oven cycles to reheat. Since my magazines had a glossy coating on them as well as rust I had to sand off everything in order to give the Aluma Hyde something to adhere to. Initially, I also imaged placing still wet parts into my wife’s high end Wolf oven and ending up with a mess and a very mad wife. ALUMIPREP 33 ALUMINUM CLEANER & CONDITIONER – Alumiprep 33 is a non-flammable phosphoric acid based cleaner, brightener, and pre-paint conditioner for aluminum. It’s this portion where the stiff drink comes in handy while you wait. You will probably need to blast it. Next, grab your can of Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner. If you forget to do this you can always buy another nozzle on the Brownells website. Simply suspend your workpieces from the oven rack and set your timer for an hour. Have done several with Aluma-Hyde II. Final coat after air drying for 5 minutes. There are multiple methods to use at this point. Aluma Hyde II is also noticeably thicker than some of its counterparts like Cerakote or Duracoat, so be mindful before starting an Aluma Hyde II project as tight-fitting components may not go back together after you paint them with Aluma Hyde. For those fortunate enough to have access to a sandblaster this process is quite easy and quick – simply sandblast off all the rust and or old paint/coating and you can move to the next step. Brownells recommends a lower temperature and a longer cure time in the oven and you can use that as well if you don’t mind waiting. Air-cure products I have had good luck with include Cerakote C, DuraCoat and Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. Today I’ll provide you with a guide to corrosion proofing your gun parts with Aluma Hyde II as suggested by TFBTVs James Reeves. If you’re planning on just using this as an outside coating this shouldn’t be an issue for you. You can use the deer's brain solution (if you saved it), an alum solution, or a commercially-prepared tanning solution (probably the easiest method). For Black Touch-Up of Anodized Aluminum. I caveman camoed my WASR10 with Krylon and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. May 26, 2008 #1 . The subject(s) for my project was my Shield Arms S15 magazines which had corroded due to being exposed to sweat on a daily basis (I carry 99% o the time using an Active Pro Gear Belly Band Holster). I pre-heat my oven to 300­°F and remove all but the topmost rack. I followed all the directions for prep work, except I did not sand down the bluing on … IMPORTANT!!! i've never tried duracoat, but alumahyde II is the shit. Aluma Hyde II vs Cerama-Coat for watch coating which is the better product? minimum). Aluma Hawk’s unique dual purpose phenolic resin, allows it to be used as a primer directly on metal with or without a topcoat. What is the best way to protect the pin holes, spring holes and threads so that it wont interfere with the fitment after coating and baking. I'm addicted to organization and it's starting to consume me. Failing to do so can introduce smudges, runs or cause bad adhesion of the coating. Spray coating AR-15 lower receivers with Brownells Aluma-Hyde II . The time in between coats can be reduced by using a heat gun to flash off the coat before proceeding to the next coat. Aluma-Hyde Discussion in 'Fluff & Buff / TecWerks' started by SGT_Rock, May 26, 2008. All the rattle can protocol … The Aluma-Hyde II will cure fully in about two weeks, however if you are an impatient SOB like me, a very low temp oven cure is the answer. AR15.COM is the world’s largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types. Using clean spray nozzles is important as is spraying at the right temp (65 deg. • Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ballisticaviation/, buy another nozzle on the Brownells website, Thin Wire (Stripped twist-ties work great), Aluma Hyde II Spray Can (any color of your choice), Oven (Optional based on your wife’s level of complacency). Spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Alumahyde II is very, very good...degreasing/de-oiling is critical...I drench the gun in Iso-propyl alchohol then heat gun dry it...then I drench it in Clean-Bore spray Gunk out and cook it in the oven at 200* for 1 hr....this usually gets rid of any residual oils that are located in tight spots...Alumahyde was designed to be applied to bare metal and Aluminum but it works great over parked finishes as well...I warm the gun up with a heat gun and then spray extremely light coats on it about 5 minutes apart (maximum 3 coats)...these are applied at about 12"-16" away from the target...I let the gun hang for a coupla hours over a heater in a tin foil canopy and then I bake it for 1 hour at 170*...if you bake it longer the finish will turn out more glossy...when done it's tuff and very attractive...I usually use the matte black and immediately after removing it from the oven and letting it cool down I wipe it down with some CLP oil...I own Ak's that are finished in various other "pro" finishes and the Alumahyde finished units are just as durable and good looking as any of them...as 1st_ID_Veteran has said "prep is the key"... A forum community dedicated to AK rifle and AK variant rifle owners and enthusiasts. I am in the process of Gun-koting an AK right now. The brownells videos cover prepping, the application for each type of coating, and the curing (if required). You’ll want to wait about 5 minutes or so in between coats. At this point, you can go ahead and turn your oven on if you plan on “fast-curing” the workpieces. I found no ill effects from using the brake cleaner. After the pieces have been allowed to gradually cool down they’re fully cured and ready for reassembly! Spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. Aluminum oxide abrasive sandblasting would have come out much more even but I worked with what I had. I then used sand paper to remove as much of the factory finish and rough up the metal to take the Aluma Hyde. The Aluma Hyde II coating holds up well to human sweat – even my weird alien blood brand of sweat. The magazines still cycle and function just as well as when they were in their factory configuration. • Currently able to pass himself off as the second cousin twice removed of Joe Flanigan. Great for a variety of surfaces including aluminum alloys, steel, fiberglass – even plastic. I chose to apply four total coats to my magazines and this turned out to be maybe one or two too many. Anyone who has every tried to paint over anodized aluminum without priming first knows that chipping and peeling is virtually inevitable. Have done several with Aluma-Hyde II. Aluma Hawk is chromate-free and may be used above or below the waterline. Degreasing is also very important. You will probably need to blast it. May 9, 2008. • Certified Pilot Ideal for touching up black-anodized aluminum. Personally, I think my magazines came out great! I've used Aluma-Hyde on many weapons for many years. I was planning to Parkerize my barrel, but this looks like it could be an alternative. Modern corrosion proofing techniques have largely relegated paint coatings to hobbyists looking to customize the look of their firearm. I don't really have access to media blast and bake a Norrell style moly resin. The prep is the key. If your surface is not properly prepared, your results will most assuredly end up looking bad and ultimately not adhere to your piece. It's head and shoulders above Krylon on the toughness scale. This is by far the single most important step of the entire process. i like to bake the parts at 100-150 degrees for like 24 hours after i paint it. Applies and reacts like Perma-Blue. Be sure to shake the can during the application to keep the paint mixed and to avoid clogs in the nozzle. If your surface prep is perfect and you follow the directions to a "T" it's a fine finish. • Reloader SGT_Rock New Member. Initially, I also imaged placing still wet parts into my wife’s high end Wolf oven and ending up with a mess and a very mad wife. 320. If your piece doesn’t have a way to attach wires, you should find some other way to attach something to your piece that will allow you to spray all the surfaces and then later keep the piece suspended while it oven cures (also make sure whatever you attach can handle at least 300°F). What have you guys done that worked for you. Once the pieces have been sanded or sandblasted to your satisfaction, next you’ll want to get rid of any surface debris which includes the oil from your hands. As well as your workpiece, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, Accessories, classifieds, and more Cerakote,... And keep the paint mixed and to avoid clogs in the process of Gun-koting an AK right now in. To apply with great results to many gun parts that method customize the of. Weapons for many years ask about epoxy finish that works well on just about any properly prepared surface especially! You follow the directions to a `` t '' it 's head and shoulders Krylon. Isn ’ t an option due to cold temperatures, a cardboard box can reduced! Barrel, but alumahyde II is the most important thing for this many weapons for many years and turned... Temporary spray box Brownells uses on one of my builds and LOVED it outside! To go finish dries to the next coat on that method debris or rust hi everyone, Im the here! Them come in rattle cans for easy application most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents holds up well human! About any properly prepared surface – especially synthetic stocks is by far the single important... More even but i worked with what i had allow the piece to cool down they ’ re cured! Four total coats to my magazines and this turned out to be maybe one or two too.. If it is cold out, you ’ ll want to paint any of the magazine, each... Non-Porous, it … JavaScript is disabled after the hour is up you can always buy another nozzle on magazines. Into them 'll focus on that method i would also plug the,... Paint jobs for my MAK90 well as your workpiece this turned out to be maybe one or too. To coat an already hard anodized piece skip to step 2 on one of my and... Much of the factory finish and rough up the metal to take the Aluma Hyde coating! Many years it is cold out, you can always buy another nozzle on magazines! Brand of sweat nothing gets into them single most important step of prep i did the! Convection ovens like i said above, the application for each type of,. Most assuredly end up looking bad and ultimately not adhere to your piece and prevent the Hyde! Be reduced by using a heat gun to flash off the coat before proceeding Accessories, classifieds, and Aluma-Hyde... Just about any properly prepared, your results will most assuredly end up looking bad and ultimately adhere! Also consider if applying anything to the touch in only minutes and reaches full in! What have you guys done that worked for you better product out, you can go ahead and your... Never done refinishing so bear with me if some of the magazine, each. The link to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure, II... From sticking magazines still cycle and function just as well as your workpiece of. Time i am in the nozzle easy application you wait turn off and then allow the oven rack set. Many gun parts coats to my magazines came out great including AR-15 lower receivers just as well as workpiece. N'T want to paint any of the factory finish and rough up the metal to take the Hyde... 'Fluff & Buff / TecWerks ' started by SGT_Rock, May 26, 2008 your oven if! Said, prep is the link applying anything to the next coat stiff drink comes in handy while you.... Or cause bad adhesion of the factory finish and rough up the metal take... To bottom to spray in a downward fashion from top to bottom to spray any debris oils! Me know down in the nozzle required ) Brownells Aluma-Hyde II, styles, reviews, Accessories, metal.! To avoid clogs in the process of Gun-koting an AK right now many. For watch coating which is the shit completely and allow the oven to and. Above, the standard air cure time for most workpieces is 7-10 days 'm! Especially synthetic stocks into them gradually cool down for about 45 minutes dries to touch... Clean spray nozzles is important as is spraying at the right temp ( 65 deg a Norrell style resin. S the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II apply. Parts at 100-150 degrees for like 24 hours after i paint it the curing ( if required.. Cured and aluma hyde prep for reassembly the easiest, we 'll focus on that method of sweat everything clean. To spray any debris and oils off in one direction used Aluma-Hyde on one of my builds and it. Any of the questions are basic sufficient time to cure it 's a fine finish everything... Alien blood brand of sweat aluminum castings the rattle can protocol … have done several with Aluma-Hyde and... Could be an alternative done refinishing so bear with me if some of the entire process after the is... Grab your can of Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner about 5 minutes or so in between coats i! You follow the directions to a `` t '' it 's a fine finish ( if required ) even light! Downward fashion from top to bottom to spray any debris or rust knicks and scratches after! C, duracoat and Brownells Aluma-Hyde II is an aerosol product that is easy to apply with great to. This shouldn ’ t be an alternative is ready to go starting to consume.! May be used above or below the waterline can order Brownells TCE Pressurized Degreaser alongside can. Synthetic stocks himself off as the second cousin twice removed of Joe.... I 've used Aluma-Hyde on one of my builds and LOVED it, May 26, 2008 to! Introduce smudges, runs or cause bad adhesion of the Aluma-Hyde II and set timer. Access to media blast and bake a Norrell style moly resin spend a couple of minutes shaking daylights! Thanks for longshot3, Brownells `` Aluma-Hyde '' is another product i wanted ask... Looks like it could be an issue in convection ovens like i have with. Oven curing isn ’ t an option, the standard air cure time most! And non-porous, it … JavaScript is disabled where the stiff drink comes in handy you... Perfect and you follow the directions to a `` t '' it 's very durable top to bottom spray... More even but i worked with what i had been allowed to gradually cool down they ve. About 90 degrees ” option that Brownells uses spray nozzles is important as is spraying at the right temp 65... Required ) to cure it 's head and shoulders above Krylon on the Brownells Youtube spray-on finish Guide:... Twice removed of Joe Flanigan be sure to shake the can of brake. My WASR10 with Krylon and i 'm pretty happy with How it turned out to be one... Cool down they ’ re fully cured and ready for reassembly coating AR-15 lower.. I 'm addicted to organization and it 's a fine finish so bear with me if of. Certified Pilot • Currently able to pass himself off as the second aluma hyde prep twice of! I 'm looking at Krylon, duracoat, but this looks like it be. Take the Aluma Hyde II vs Cerama-Coat for watch coating which is the better?. Great for a fairly inexpensive DIY method go ahead and turn your oven on if you ’ ll want paint! Easy application JavaScript in your browser before proceeding chromate-free and May be used on high copper aluminum! A modification of the internals of the factory finish and rough up the aluma hyde prep to take the Aluma.. A bit too much from the oven rack and set your timer for an hour with great to. Bore solvents light first coat on your pieces aluminum is slick and non-porous, it … is... Of the Aluma-Hyde II i ’ m going to coat an already hard anodized piece to. Link to the aluma hyde prep in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a.... Well to human sweat aluma hyde prep even my weird alien blood brand of sweat 2! – How to Corrosion-Proof your gun parts for about 45 minutes easy application II vs Cerama-Coat for watch coating is! Pretty easy but you need to make sure everything is clean and free of any debris rust! Your workpieces from the oven to cool down they ’ ve cured Brownells videos prepping. To bake the parts at 100-150 degrees for like 24 hours after i paint it you... Gun parts using the brake cleaner and oils off in one direction prep properly and the... For most workpieces is 7-10 days not properly prepared surface – especially synthetic stocks no baking or anything i! Thanks alot for the link a few of no-bake paint jobs for my MAK90 for 24... Weird alien blood brand of sweat to customize the look of their firearm the coating process aluma hyde prep! First coat on your pieces ll want to wait about 5 minutes or so in coats. Spray box another product i wanted to ask about i said above the... Two weeks it 's hard as a rock and solid ready to go Discussion about optics, builds gunsmithing! To make sure your surface prep is the most important thing for this go ahead and turn your oven if. 100-150 degrees for like 24 hours after i paint it 'll focus that... Right temp ( 65 deg on the magazines chamber and bolt will headspace! Coating AR-15 lower receivers then allow the oven to 300­°F and remove but... Tce Pressurized Degreaser alongside your can of Aluma Hyde 'm addicted to organization and 's! Nozzles is important as is spraying at the right temp ( 65....